COUNTERTOPS & SLABS


Countertops play such an important role in any kitchen or bathroom renovation - besides being a functional work surface, they often become the centrepiece of the space. After appliances, countertops usually come in as one of the highest ticket items in any kitchen renovation. They need to be durable, beautiful, and (hopefully) economical. There are several different options available; read on to understand more about our favourites to help determine which is right for you.

Lilac grey marble countertops in our Palmerston Parisian project.

Lilac grey marble countertops in our Palmerston Parisian project.

GRANITE

Granite countertops used to be the most popular choice for homeowners, largely because of their beauty and durability. Granite is an igneous rock made from compressed quartz, mica, feldspar, and other materials. This means it is an extremely hard natural stone and is very difficult to chip or scratch. Granite is also heat resistant, so you can set down hot pans on its surface without any damage to the slab. For a natural stone, it is virtually maintenance free.

The patterns on granite are usually of a smaller scale than what you would find in a marble slab. When it is sealed properly, it becomes difficult to stain. When we use granite countertops in our projects, we like to specify them in a honed finish (versus polished), as we prefer the soft, matte finish more than the polished, glossy, look.

In our Beaches Update  project, we used honed black granite countertops on the perimeter of the kitchen counters.

In our Beaches Update project, we used honed black granite countertops on the perimeter of the kitchen counters.

MARBLE

Marble has a reputation for being a difficult countertop material, but we still think it is a wonderful choice for many kitchens. Marble is a metamorphic stone, but is not as hard as granite. Therefore, it is more porous and susceptible to staining. Marble also has a chemical structure that reacts with acid (like lemon juice or vinegar), which can lead to etching on the surface. Therefore, marble requires some maintenance if you want it to always look like new.

However, if you adopt a European mindset, you can value the beautiful patina that marble develops over time. The stains and etches can blend into the natural veining of the marble, particular if you get a marble with a lot of visual movement. Furthermore, stains and etches are often hidden with a honed finish, versus a polished one. We always specify honed finishes for marble for this reason, and we feel it looks softer and more luxurious this way. It's also a great choice for bathrooms, which are usually less exposed to materials that may stain or etch the surface.

We used honed Bianco Oro, honed marble counters in our Ritchie Rowhouse project

We used honed Bianco Oro, honed marble counters in our Ritchie Rowhouse project

SOAPSTONE

Soapstone deserves it's own category for a countertop choice. Soapstone is a metamorphic rock, like marble, but it is the high presence of talc in the stone that gives it it's name. It is soft to the touch, but is nonporous and stain and bacteria resistant. It also does not react to acidic foods like marble does, and it is heat resistant, so it will not scorch. The only caveat with soapstone is that, because it is so soft, it is susceptible to scratches and nicks. However, these imperfections can usually be removed with a light sandpaper buffing by the homeowner.

Soapstone comes in a variety of tones, from light grey to dark black, with some blue and green tones in between. It naturally darkens over time, and is often treated with mineral oil to help unify this appearance and bring out the lighter veins that appear.

We used Vermont soapstone counters in our West End Apartment project.

We used Vermont soapstone counters in our West End Apartment project.

ENGINEERED QUARTZ

Engineered quartz counters are made of more than 90% quartz, with the remaining being resin. It is naturally resistant to stains, scratches, and acids, without requiring any sealers. It is virtually the most maintenance free type of countertop, and is easy to clean with just soap and water.

The appearance of the counters depends on how finely the quartz is ground. It comes in a variety of colours and patterns, ranging from solid colours to imitating the appearance of concrete, stone or marble. Because real concrete countertops stain easily, we often replicate that look using an engineered quartz. We also often specify quartz counters when a solid colour like white or grey is desired for the kitchen design.

In our Modern Victorian project, we used Caesarstone engineered quartz in Pure White for the kitchen counters.

In our Modern Victorian project, we used Caesarstone engineered quartz in Pure White for the kitchen counters.

SOLID SURFACE

Solid surface is a manufactured material made from acrylic resins mixed with minerals and colours. The leading brand of solid surface countertops is Corian, made by DuPont. It is durable, nontoxic, and non-porous and stain-resistant. Because it is a man-made material, it is easily available, unlike some natural stone that needs to be quarried. However, Corian does not have the same heat resistant properties that it's stone counterparts tout - you shouldn't place a hot pan on it's surface without a trivet.

Corian has a number of amazing benefits when compared to other countertops. Slabs can be installed beside each other with the seams essentially buffed out, giving a continuous appearance. It also can be easily moulded into sinks, integrated draining racks, recessed soap areas, to name a few. This makes cleaning and maintenance extremely easy. Lastly, because it is an acrylic product, when looking for a solid colour countertop, it has the cleanest appearance. For example, a Glacier White counter is exactly that - pure white, solid, spotless.

In our Ritchie Rowhouse project, we used a Corian countertop with a seamlessly integrated sink for one of the bathrooms.

In our Ritchie Rowhouse project, we used a Corian countertop with a seamlessly integrated sink for one of the bathrooms.

WOOD

Butcher block countertops are a popular choice to bring some warmth into a kitchen, and they are typically less expensive than the other countertop options. Butcher block is made from cuts of wood that have been glued together to form a slab, which provides a sturdy and stable countertop. There are three basic styles of butcher block - face grain (boards laid flat beside each other), edge grain (boards placed on their sides and glued together) and end grain (blocks arranged so the end grain is visible on each surface). End grain is the strongest and most expensive type, but has a much more varied appearance, sometimes like a checkerboard. If that look isn't for you, edge grain is the best option, as it is less expensive and is still very durable.

Butcher block can be fairly rigorous to maintain.They need to be oiled to prevent cracking and splitting between the boards (at least twice a year, but sometimes more regularly depending on the humidity/temperature conditions where you are, and the type/species of wood that is used). They are also easy to damage, as they are susceptible to water marks, burns, and knicks. However, they are also easy to repair - should you accidentally scratch or burn the countertop, you can lightly sand out the damage and re-apply the oil, and the countertop will look great again. One item to note is if you have a sink in this countertop, you should do a drop-in (vs. an undermount) to try and prevent water damage to the counter. If wood counters are desired in a kitchen, we often use them in islands (without sinks).

In our Ritchie Rowhouse project, we used edge grain, white oak butcher block only on the island.

In our Ritchie Rowhouse project, we used edge grain, white oak butcher block only on the island.

OTHER

There are several other countertop options like concrete, metal, laminate, paper composite, and even glass that are available, but the ones we have listed above are the ones we typically specify for residential homes. However, these other options may work for your specific project, depending on the design of your space and your lifestyle.

EDGE PROFILES

Slabs typically come in 3/4” (2cm) or 1-1/4” (3cm) thickness. In most situations we design for 1-1/4” thickness, even if it’s ultimately built-up from thinner slab material. Even thicker edges can be built up with mitred seams. However, built-ups are not possible on curved edges and should be avoided at apron sinks because of the awkward detailing involved.

Slabs should overhang the cabinet face below to help protect the millwork from messes and moisture. We typically specify 1”, though anywhere from 3/4”–1 1/2” is common. It’s good to mock-up your cabinet hardware when deciding.

Below are four examples of edge profiles we like. The modern tendency is for minimal, eased edges. Traditional profiles aim for a softer, more detailed transition.

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