Wood floors are the natural choice for many rooms, and for good reason—they are comfortable, durable, and bring warmth to the spaces they are in. When choosing what to install, there are many factors to consider: species, finish, size, etc. This post will help you navigate typical options so that you end up with the right wood flooring for the job.

Engineered wood floors in our Apartment Conversion project — *Pre-finished engineered wood floors in our* *Apartment Conversion* *project*

QUICK SUMMARY

Use engineered wood
Decide between pre-finished or site finished
Thickness: 3/4”, with a minimum of 1/8” (3mm) top layer
Length: random with longest boards at least 6’
Width: in the typical range of 4 1/2”–7 1/2” is usually best for houses
Pattern: straight-lay is fine; only use herringbones and chevrons over super-flat subfloors and where the pattern will be appreciated
Make sure that the micro-bevel at the board edges is not too pronounced (common with cheaper options)
Species: white oak is most common and versatile, otherwise consider hickory, maple, walnut, or others others for a different look
Grade: use “select” for uniformity or “character” for a rustic look
Colour: to suit your taste and the surrounding finishes
Top Coat: satin poly for durability or oil/wax for a super-flat patina

THE MOVE FROM SOLID TO ENGINEERED WOOD FLOORING

Historically, wood flooring was made from solid pieces of wood, and this is still common in older homes. But because seasonal changes in humidity can lead to gaps between the boards, the industry has shifted to engineered wood flooring, which is made with a stable plywood base. In theory this might mean one or two fewer re-finishings over the lifetime of the floor, but this isn’t a practical concern for most homeowners. Generally engineered is the better option, except when patching into existing solid wood floors.

PRE-FINISHED VS. SITE-FINISHED

The biggest decision to make about wood flooring is whether or not it should be pre-finished or site-finished. Pre-finished is typically cheaper, but there are two main advantages to site-finished: 1) the exact finish can be fine-tuned in place next to all of the other installed finishes, and 2) the floor can be sanded perfectly flat, without the beveled edges required on pre-finished boards. That said, careful planning can give you confidence about colour choice, and higher-end, pre-finished products often come with very minimally-pronounced bevels. Also, storing some extra pre-finished boards will make repair work easy should that become necessary.

THICKNESS

The highest quality boards are 3/4” (19mm) thick, minimum. Also, it’s wise to choose a product with a relatively thick top layer to increase the floor’s longevity: at least 1/8” (3mm).

Hardwood herringbone floors with a perimeter border in our Reimagined Edwardian project. — *Hardwood herringbone floors with a perimeter border in our* *Reimagined Edwardian* *project.*

PATTERN & BOARD SIZE

The most typically used pattern is straight-lay, with boards run perpendicular to the main source of natural light (seldomly, but sometimes changing direction at rooms). To avoid the distraction of a deliberate pattern, boards are provided in random lengths, so go with a product that has its longest boards at least 6 feet (72”) long.

Thanks to the advent of engineered wood flooring, boards can be made relatively wide, with 4 1/2”–7 1/2” being most common. When deciding on the right width, consider that wider boards tend to highlight grain patterns and can sometimes overwhelm small spaces.

In addition to straight-lay, manufacturer's often offer pre-cut chevron and herringbone patterns. This can be nice in rooms where a lot of flooring will be exposed. However, you must be careful to coordinate with your contractor, since a perfectly level subfloor is required.

This image shows a solid hardwood transition to a marble bathroom floor in our Dovercourt Dwelling project. The wood is reclaimed maple, conservation grade, pre-finished with a satin polyurethane, from one of our favourite suppliers in Toronto, Nadurra Wood. — *This image shows a solid hardwood transition to a marble bathroom floor. The wood is reclaimed maple, conservation grade, pre-finished with a satin polyurethane, from* *Nadurra Wood*.

SPECIES & GRAIN PATTERN

Wood flooring comes in a variety of species, each with its own hardness, characteristic grain pattern, and suitable colour range for staining. White oak has become the most prevalent by far, balancing typical concerns at an effective price point. Most flooring is plain cut, making the grain patterns somewhat pronounced. This is especially true with oak, though at a higher price-point you can buy vertical grain boards, with a cleaner appearance.

Alternatives are typically hardwood to be provide durability. Hickory is often used when when a very pronounced grain pattern is desired. Maple provides a quieter look and is extremely durable (it’s used on gym and bowling alley floors), but it can only be stained with light colours. Walnut is another option, offering a softer, distinguished grain pattern that looks especially rich in dark tones.

Most boards are sold as “select grade” to minimize anomalies. But for a rustic or industrial vibe, consider “character grade” with more knots and markings. Such boards are sometimes offered in softwood species like pine, but their soft nature means that nicks and scratches are part of their charm.

This image shows a detail of engineered wood flooring from our project, Ritchie Rowhouse. This wood was sourced from Stone Tile in Toronto, and is a white oak with a white oil stained finish, so it is extremely matte. Here, the engineered wood has a microbeveled edge which is barely noticeable when the boards are beside each other - they look essentially flat. — *This image shows a detail of engineered wood flooring from our project,* *Ritchie Rowhouse. This wood was sourced from Stone Tile in Toronto, and is a white oak with a white oil stained finish, so it is very matte, and the bevels are extremely small for a very flat appearance.*

COLOUR

Choosing a colour will depend on many factors, but here are some things to keep in mind. Dark floors help create a cozy and refined feeling, but are more likely to show dust and darken the space. Light floors can help make spaces feel bright, but downplay wood’s natural warmth and character. For a balanced look there are a plenty of choices available in between.

In addition to light vs. dark, pigmentation plays a role in the finish choice. Many stains seek to add warmth by tilting towards red, orange, or yellow. On the other end, some stains have a cool-toned appearance, sometimes grey, cerused (lime-washed), or nearly white. Boards can also be painted, but that’s a whole other kettle of fish.

TOP COAT: POLY VS OIL

A matte finish is the best way to get a natural look. Traditionally oil or oil/wax finishes have been the best way to achieve this goal, hiding wear through a worn, patina-embraced aesthetic. Be cautioned, though, more maintenance is required.

For more durability and ease of upkeep, polyurethane is the standard choice for a top coat. This used to result in somewhat shiny floors, though now manufacturers can make very durable low-sheen products. When making your choice, make sure you are aware and comfortable of the maintenance required.

WOOD FLOORING