STAIRS & RAILINGS
Stairs and railings are key focal points in most homes, and their unique requirements mean that care must be attended to their details. Depending on your budget and priorities, you may decide to keep things simple or splurge a little to add more life to your house.
Because metal or concrete stairs come with a high premium, we typically work with a local fabricator for a stair of wood construction. Often these shops resemble millworker operations, and any stair maker will have their own resources of stock profiles and materials to choose from, and there are often opportunities to employ custom elements.
Below is an explanation of the main anatomy of a stair and railing, including typical options for each part.
STAIRS
STRINGERS: The structural members that give direct support to the sides of the stair treads are known as stringers. They can either be “cut” or “notched” so that the treads pass over them, or, alternatively, left “closed” so that the treads and risers are completely housed within them. Generally speaking, a closed stringer is somewhat less costly and is better paired with certain railing systems. An open stringer might be deemed more visually appealing, however.
TREADS: To make it comfortable for bare feet, we favour a full bullnose tread nosing. Rounded edges of a smaller radius are also fine.
RISERS: To save money, these are typically left closed, though it’s possible to have them open with some bar or other element that maintains a 4” maximum opening.
DECORATION: It’s typical to add a small moulding under the treads as an aesthetic flourish. It’s also possible to add mouldings and decorative brackets to the stringers, though highly decorative motifs can get pricey.
FINISH: Typically the treads are made to match the adjacent or nearby wood flooring. The risers and stringers can also be stained, though it’s more cost effective to paint them.
RAILINGS
First, some vocabulary: the vertical members that support the railing are known as balusters (sometimes also called pickets or spindles). The larger supporting members at the ends are known as newel posts. The whole assembly is called a railing, balustrade, or banister. As an alternative to a railing altogether, one could employ a wall or screen as long as it otherwise meets code. In such cases, a mounted handrail would still be required up the steps.
There are several options for railings. However, Ontario is one of the few jurisdictions that maintains a “ladder effect” clause in its building code. Consequently railings must be composed almost entirely of vertical elements. Also, no space within the assembly can be larger than 4”.
MATERIAL & FINISH: Wood is much less expensive than metal, and painted wood is somewhat less than stained wood. It can be lovely to have the entire railing assembly stained, but it’s less costly too have some of the elements painted (especially the balusters).
WOOD BALUSTER: This can be as simple as a square, perhaps chamfered to add some detail. Balusters can also be “turned” to give it a sculpted profile, and these range in style and level of complexity. Another alternative is using wood slats, known as a “sawn baluster.” These can be cut into decorative shapes or arranged to create a rhythm.
METAL BALUSTER: For a sleeker look, metal balusters come in a variety of styles, including square and round ones. It’s also possible to get pre-manufactured balusters with decorative “knuckles.” On occasion we’ve had an ironworker weld a special shape.
NEWEL POST: Typically the post is chosen in a complimentary style to the baluster. In general wood newel posts come either square (boxed) or turned. For a continuous handrail, choose a turned pin-top newel post.
TOP RAIL: Serving as the handrail and top rail at landings, we typically recommend rounded profiles that feel comfortable for the hand. These can range from more to less detailed. A top rail can either die into or pass over the posts. Wood top rails can be used with either metal or wood balusters.
